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Sip & Savor

The Plaka Apologia, a hand-written pub crawl in Athens

The Low Road: The Plaka Apologia

Athens · 5 stops · every stop verified in live map data · ends near a bed

Socrates delivered the first apologia downhill from here and lost. Yours will go better: cellar wine at noon, ouzo lit like stained glass, rebetiko until the marble listens. Two of these rooms are shut on Sundays, so do not open the case on one.

🥃 Walk it live on the map
  1. 1 · The Cold Open
    Diporto
    No sign, no menu, no card machine. Two doors and a stair down to a cellar under the market. The 1887 everybody prints comes from an English travel piece and appears nowhere in the Greek record; what the freeholders can actually show is a lease from 1913 letting this basement as a wine shop, and describing it as one already. Retsina comes out of the barrels along the back wall into red tin jugs. There are about four dishes and you do not pick them. Cash, daytime, shut Sundays.
    a wine cellar here since at least 1913 · Mon-Sat roughly 8am till 7pm, closed Sun, cash only · verified Aug 2026 · 🎧 the feel · Vasilis Tsitsanis with Eleni Gerani, Synnefiasmeni Kyriaki ↗
  2. 2 · The Detour
    Kapnikarea
    Named for the Byzantine church it sits beneath, and it is a room rather than a monument. Sotiris Sofos was a well known tailor with a good address book, and he opened this in 1977. His son Dimitris took it on in August 1996, the month the first stretch of Ermou was pedestrianised and the street outside changed for good. The kitchen is his mother Evangelia's, from Ikaria. Order ouzo and let it come with the music: seven till half ten most nights, laiko and rebetiko, sometimes a swing band instead.
    est. 1977, second generation since 1996 · daily 1pm till midnight, music 7pm till 10.30pm · verified Aug 2026
    laiko and rebetiko seven till half ten most nights, sometimes a swing band instead · 🎧 they play · Rembetiko with bouzoukia at Kapnikarea ↗
  3. 3 · The Anchor
    Klimataria
    OINOMAGEIREION is still painted over the door, which is the old word for a cook shop that sells wine. The house says 1927, when a Mr Gerodimos turned a church café into one, and no register anywhere confirms it. The name has not even been continuous: it was Neo Kosmiko from 1961 and briefly Nea Agora in 1996. A working musician named Periklis took it over in the mid nineties, which is why there is a band. It burned at dawn on 23 July 2005 and was rebuilt. Barrel wine, raki and ouzo by the carafe. Never music on a Monday.
    the house says 1927, and the name has been two others since · daily from noon, till 12.30am or 1am · verified Aug 2026 · 🎧 our pick · Stelios Kazantzidis, Iparho, remastered ↗
  4. 4 · The Wildcard
    Brettos
    The wall of lit bottles is the photograph everyone comes for. What this is not is a distillery, whatever the sign says: a law about fifty years old stopped distilling in central Athens, so the liqueurs are made out at Koropi now and the ouzo and raki in Arta. The Vrettos family sold up around 1969 and the Papadonikolakis family have had it since the mid two thousands. Forty odd liqueurs, ouzo to quadruple distilled, tsipouro, rakomelo. Through the same door and down the stairs is Damigou, a taverna from 1864, which really is the oldest in Athens.
    the shop claims 1909, the distilling left town · daily 10am till 3am · verified Aug 2026
  5. 5 · The Last Call
    Galaxy
    Walk into the arcade at Stadiou 10, because a phone will put you out on the pavement at the wrong door by about twenty five metres. Yannis and Jimmy Alabanos, two brothers from Lamia, opened Galaxy in 1972 at number five and moved five doors along around 1990. Yannis was still working the room in 2025 and his son Kostas is on the bar. Whisky, gin, a dry martini people cross town for, and a house rule about music: it is not supposed to bother you. Second oldest bar in the city, not the oldest. Shut Sundays.
    est. 1972, in this arcade since about 1990 · Mon-Sat from 4pm till late, closed Sun · verified Aug 2026

Fly in via ATH. The live map shows every pub, bar and restaurant around the route, compiled from OpenStreetMap and Google with live ratings.

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